E! illustration/Courtesy of Sofie Pavitt FaceMandelic acid is the latest trending skincare ingredient the internet is obsessed with—except it's not new at all. Made popular by a variety of product launches featuring this star ingredient, mandelic acid is known for its gentle exfoliation and excellence in treating acne-prone skin.
But what exactly is mandelic acid? The word acid can be scary, especially considering previous skincare trends focused on over-exfoliating skin.
But mandelic acid isn't scary. In fact, it's one of the most gentle exfoliators out there. It's especially great for sensitive and acne-prone skin!
Still, we're not professional skin experts—so, we spoke to one. Amity Murray is the lead esthetician at the Spa at Hotel Chelsea, and knows all about this star ingredient.
Keep reading to learn more about this skincare-favorite acid, how to incorporate it into your skincare routine, and what mandelic products will have you treating your skin like a pro.
What Is Mandelic Acid?
According to Murray, mandelic acid is an exfoliating acid (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids or AHA) that is derived from apples, in the same category as glycolic and lactic acid.
"It's one of the more gentle acids. It has a very small molecule," she tells E!. The weight of the molecule is very important—the smaller the weight, the deeper the absorbtion in your skin. When a molecule is larger, it has a harder time sinking deeper into your skin. Don't let it scare you, though. AHAs exfoliate and absorb deep into your skin while remaining gentle.
Mandelic acid is commonly recommended for acne-prone skin, active breakouts, and overall sensitive skin. "It's being used for treating acne, because you never want to overdry, overstrip, overexfoliate, because it can just exacerbate the condition," Murray shared. She also recommends the ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation, which can follow breakouts.
Murray highly recommends products with mandelic acid for adult and mature women that get cyclical breakouts, have sensitive skin, and hyperpigmentation. "I would even feel comfortable using it for rosacea," she says. On the other hand, for teens who struggle with acne, she suggests salicylic acid and willow bark to address the oil congestion instead.
How Often Should I Use Mandelic Acid?
Less is more when it comes to exfoliation. "The rule, in my opinion, is that it should be done one to two times a week at most," Murray explains. "People really kind of lean on exfoliation because there's this thinking that they're going to purify, cleanse, and burn their skin clear."
But overexfoliating can do more damange than anything else! Stick to adding mandelic acid to your skincare routine once or twice a week.
Murray mentioned that people with acne could use it a little more frequently. "You want to make sure that your skin can handle that," she says. So, test it out and then slowly add it to see how your skin reacts.
Murray also recommends sticking with one exfoliating product at a time to not overwhelm your skin. "You don't need to use multiple acids on your skin at the same time," she says. "You don't need a toner, a serum and a mask. One thing is enough."
Best Mandelic Acid Products
Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Acid Exfoliating & Clearing Serum
While Murray has been using mandelic acid in her treatments for years now, it's only recently that she's began to hear it from her clients—and one specific product stands out among the rest: Sofie Pavitt Face's Mandelic Avid Serum. "[Sofie Pavitt] has been known in the industry as like the acting whisperer, and her clearing serum is something that I hear quite often in the treatment room," Murray said.
Good Molecules Mandelic Acid Serum
Good Molecules is known for its affordable potent products with simple formulations and ingredients that somehow just works. This serum includes the star ingredient, alongside mild polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and hyoloronic acid, for gentle exfoliation, brightening, and hydration. We'd recommend adding this one to cart ASAP if you're interested, since it's already sold out on Amazon and the brand's website.
DIME TBT Serum with Mandelic Acid + Peptides
With a rating of 4.8 out of 5 stars and 3,670 reviews, Ulta shoppers are definitely obsessed with this DIME serum. It’s formulated with a blend of mandelic acid, niacinamide, and resveratrol for gentle exfoliation, protect skin barrier, and reduce redness. “I feel that this has been preventing some hormonal acne and it feels great on my skin,” an Ulta reviewer writes.
The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA Gentle Facial Exfoliating Serum
The Ordinary is a classic option if you're interested in trying out an ingredient on your skin for the first time but don't want to spend a ton of money. This 10% formulation of Madelic Acid promises no-fuss gentle exfoliation in a superficial peel. Plus, it's just $8!
Votary Radiance Reveal Mask
Murray uses the Votary Radiance Reveal Mask at the Spa at Hotel Chelsea, and she loves it. “It contains both lactic and mandelic [acid] in it, and it's in this nice, beautiful, creamy, hydrating face mask,” she says. “It's really gentle and gorgeous.” This peel is formulated to help even out hyperpigmentation and smooth away fine lines.
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum
While on the pricey side, this night serum from Allies of Skin has serious fans—and for good reason! It's formulated gently dissolve dead skin cells and nourish your skin with a blend of 11% mandelic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid alongside hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and essential fatty acids from organic rosehip and tamanu oils. "It is the first active I have been able to use consistently without breakouts and reactions," one reviewer wrote.