E! illustration/Remedy SkinHyperpigmentation is very complicated. We all have those moments where we get stubborn dark spots and acne scars that just won't go away, no matter how many products we throw into our skincare routine. We have so many questions: How does it form? What causes it? What ingredients work best to treat it? Is there a difference between acne scars and sun spots? What about melasma?
We may be skincare enthusiasts, but we're no experts. Lucky for us, we tapped an actual dermatologist and skincare brand founder to answer all those questions—and get a few product recommendations in the process.
We spoke to Dr. Muneeb Shah, the board-certified dermatologist, founder of Remedy Skin, and TikTok content creator with more than 17 million followers, and asked him everything we were wondering about!
So, keep on reading to learn more about hyperpigmentation and the products that work best to treat it, according to Dr. Shah and his expert advice.
What Is Hyperpigmentation?
"Hyperpigmentation is when you get an increase of melanin pigment in a portion of the skin, and then that can look to the eye like a dark mark," Dr. Shah told us. This discoloration can look different, either a melasma (larger "blob" of pigmentation), freckles, sun spots, or acne scars.
Dr. Shah explained that it's produced by melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells on the lower level of our skin, through an enzyme called tyrosinase. The difference in hyperpigmentation is based on what triggered the melanocytes. Sun exposure, hormones (especially during pregnancy), and inflammation caused by acne are all triggers that can cause hyperpigmentation.
What Is The Secret To Treating Hyperpigmentation?
There's no one solution to treat all forms of hyperpigmentation. "There is a little bit of a deeper nuance to it," Dr. Shah said. "Pigmentation can deposit at different levels." For example, hyperpigmentation from acne is usually superficial and responds better to topical treatments.
Melasma, on the other hand, depends on its form—some can be treated with topical treatments, while others are deeper in the skin and should be treated with lasers or chemical peels. "But it's hard to know without seeing somebody," he said. "I'm still going to try somebody on a topical treatment first to see how they respond because I don't know how deep their pigment is."
Dr. Shah suggests treating the cause of hyperpigmentation first and foremost. "I would always say to treat your acne first, because otherwise, treating the dark mark that comes after acne is you're going to be a futile effort." Same thing with pigment caused by sun exposure, wear your SPF first and foremost. Then address the hyperpigmentation.
What Ingredients Should People Focus on to Treat Their Hyperpigmentation?
There are plenty of ingredients that promise to brighten and clear up hyperpigmentation, but only a few of them are worth your time and money. "You really should focus on ingredients that target all three steps of the pathway," Dr. Shah said. "The melanin [or pigment] goes from the melanocyte [through the tyrosinase enzyme] to a melanosome, which is like a little vesicle [or transport], and then it transfers it to the skin cells." The thing is, lots of ingredients just focus on inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme step, which won't remove existing hyperpigmentation.
Which ingredients target all three steps? "Choose a cocktail of ingredients that targets multiple steps in the pigment pathway. And so, that would be vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, kojic acid, alpha-arbutin, and azelaic acid," Dr. Shah said. If there's a single ingredient that treats it all on its own, it's retinol—and no alternative retinols, either, just pure retinoid.
Remedy For Daily Defense 15% Vitamin C Complex Brightening Serum
A Vitamin C serum that won't go brown quickly, smell awful, break you out, and won't cost hundreds of dollars? We're in. Made with 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, this formula took two years for Dr. Shah and his team to develop. "[It's] an antioxidant and reparative formula. So, unlike a lot of vitamin C serums that are very watery, this is a much more hydrating formula," he said.
Remedy For Dark Spots Advanced Dark Spot Serum
Specifically for hyperpigmentation, Dr. Shah recommends his brand's first product: Remedy For Dark Spots. "It's nine different ingredients in one formula that all target different parts of the pathway at effective concentrations, and we stabilized it. We also tested it on all skin tones, and we tested it for sensitive skin, so we know that like it's well-tolerated."
Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum
Dr. Shah recommended a few products by name, one of them being the Topicals Faded Serum. "[They could use] a formula that's already pre-formulated with multiple ingredients, and it's been tested overall to be effective," he said. This serum is one of them, and it targets multiple pathways to treat hyperpigmentation.
SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense
SkinCeuticals' Discoloration Defense serum is another product Dr. Shah recommended as a formula with multiple ingredients that target different levels of the hyperpigmentation pathway. It promises to target both stubborn brown spots and post-inflammatory discoloration.
EADEM Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum
This TikTok-viral serum from EADEM features a fragrance-free blend of niacinamide, an encapsulated version of vitamin C, and amber algae with papaya and pineapple enzymes.
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum
Alpha-Arbutin and niacinamide are ingredients recommended by Dr. Shah, and this K-Beauty serum features them with an addition of tranexamic acid to further improve brightness and discoloration.
Hyper Skin Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C Serum
This Vitamin C serum also has the Dr. Shah-recommended kojic acid, as well as bearberry and licorice to treat acne scars, with turmeric and salicylic acid to treat underlying inflammatory issues.
ALLIES OF SKIN Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
This advanced serum includes 10% of superstar ingredients azaelic acid and 1% of kojic acid, formulated alongside other hydrating and calming ingredients. It's a chemical exfoliator that promises to purify excess sebum, tighten pores, and even skin tone.
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Another product with 10% azelaic acid, this treatment promises to clarify uneven skin tone, fade acne marks, and calm redness.
U Beauty Resurfacing Compound Face Serum
This multitasking serum has a formula chockfull of brightening and resurfacing ingredients (that are also Dr. Shah-approved) like vitamin C and retinol with a blend of other exfoliating acids.
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